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From the earliest British Christian martyr to the saviours of British cask beer in the 1970s, the city has a rich and varied history. For all its interest, the cathedral itself is hardly an attractive building. Subject to so much rebuilding, it has a jumble of architectural styles that don’t hang together. Perhaps most disappointing is the west front - the only English major church that is almost completely Victorian. Though let us not be too harsh. The Victorians have been castigated for destroying and vandalising hundreds of splendid medieval buildings. Yet they did preserve many that would otherwise have been subject to a slow death through neglect - and would have been fit only for demolition. The cathedral rebuilding is the work of the almost archetypal man of the period with a name to match. Lord Grimthorpe was a lawyer, architect and amateur theologian - who put up £130,000 of his own money (work that out in current terms) for rebuilding in 1873. He also left his mark on two of the town’s medieval churches: the tower and west end of St Michael’s (famous for its life monument to Francis Bacon, showing the great man asleep in seated comfort) and St Peter’s, wholly Victorian after its restoration of 1895. Within stands the monument of 1723 to Edward Strong, colleague of Wren and the chief master mason of St Pauls. A fine inscription ends: ‘He Shared the Felicity of Seeing both the Beginning and Finishing of that Stupendous Fabrick.’ |
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